Is a higher percentage of vitamin C better?
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Autumn’s first weeks are upon us, and fall fever is finally setting in. As you ruminate over what to bring into your seasonal rotation, consider a supercharged vitamin C serum right up there with a sleek coat or this season's It boot. Show
For brightening up a dull complexion and erasing sun spots, vitamin C is the gold standard of ingredients, especially as the years go on. As such, getting familiar with the powerhouse antioxidant is essential for any robust skincare strategy. “Vitamin C is perhaps the most potent topical antioxidant we have,” explains dermatologist Joshua Zeichner, M.D., of the natural collagen booster. “It neutralizes free radical damage and protects the skin against UV light and other environmental aggressors, as well as blocking abnormal production of pigmentation to even skin tone and fade dark spots.” And while it’s best known for brightening, it can also be instrumental in skin firming, adds Los Angeles superfacialist Kate Somerville. “I have used vitamin C in my clinic for years to help with elasticity and tighten the skin around the neck and décolletage,” she says. Here, how best to utilize the hero ingredient for a brighter, smoother, and plumper complexion year-round. Choose the Right ConcentrationIdentifying the right concentration for your skin type is essential to how effective your topical vitamin C will be, says New York City dermatologist Dr. Patricia Wexler. "Begin with a low concentration of 10% and increase to 15% or 20% as tolerated," she instructs. For oily or normal skin, L-ascorbic acid is the most potent form of vitamin C and can be the most beneficial, while for dry and sensitive skin, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, a water-soluble vitamin C, is less irritating. Kate Somerville +Retinol Vitamin C MoisturizerOlehenriksen C-Rush Vitamin C Gel MoisturizerSunday Riley C.E.O. Vitamin C Rich Hydration CreamREN Glow Daily Vitamin C Gel Cream MoisturizerPay Attention to pHAbsorption of a vitamin C is largely contingent on its pH level. If you have normal skin, look for one with a low pH of approximately 3.5 for optimal absorption. If you have sensitive skin, you should use a formula with a pH of 5 to 6. "This is the skin's natural pH and will not be as irritating," says Wexler. Drunk Elephant C-Firma Vitamin C Day SerumPeter Thomas Roth Potent-C Vitamin C SerumBiobare Vitamin C, B, E & Ferulic SerumLa Roche-Posay 10% Pure Vitamin C SerumGo With a SerumDesigned to deliver a high concentration of actives, serums are the most common form of delivery for vitamin C. "They keep that ingredient stable and enhance penetration through the outer skin layer," says Zeichner. As far as complementary ingredients are concerned, Wexler believes vitamin C works best in combination with vitamin E, ferulic Acid, vitamin B, and hyaluronic acid. "Vitamin C and E are both antioxidants and support each other," she explains, adding that ferulic acid is another antioxidant which boosts and stabilizes both vitamin C and vitamin E in fighting free radical damage and collagen production. That being said, sensitive skin types might benefit from mixing their serum into a moisturizer, or opting for a vitamin C-infused moisturizer for gentler delivery. SkinCeuticals CE FerulicL’Oréal Paris Revitalift Derm Intensives Pure Vitamin C SerumDr. Barbara Sturm The Good C Vitamin C SerumPayot Concentré ÉclatStart SlowlyTo keep skin happy, take a gradual approach when adding vitamin C to your regimen. "With any active, it’s important to start slowly when incorporating ingredients into your routine," says Somerville. "I’ve seen some amazing results with clients who've added vitamin C into their regimen at three times a week and worked up to daily use." To that end, don't expect instant gratification. "It takes several weeks of continuous use to start to see improvement in skin tone," says Zeichner, adding that because it's a key ingredient for prevention, some benefits will be imperceptible. 111Skin Vitamin C Brightening BoosterHyper Skin Brightening Dark Spot Vitamin C SerumUrsa Major Brighten Up Vitamin C SerumRenée Rouleau Vitamin C&E TreatmentStore It SafelyVitamin C serums come in two broad categories: Water-based and anhydrous (which literally means "without water"). The former is more unstable and light sensitive, and is typically held in opaque or amber-colored bottles for that reason, while the latter tends to be more stable, even in the presence of sunlight. No matter what kind you opt for, ensuring your vitamin C is stabilized and kept airtight in a dark, cool space is essential. "If the color becomes dark or cloudy it has already oxidized," cautions Wexler, adding that the same is true if you detect a rancid odor. BeautyStat Universal C Skin RefinerTatcha Violet-C Brightening SerumTata Harper Resurfacing SerumObagi Medical Professional-C SerumLayer It Under SPFUnlike hydroxyacids or retinol, vitamin C does not make the skin more vulnerable to sunburn. That being said, the most potent forms of vitamin C are vulnerable to light exposure, and therefore the use of vitamin C must be in conjunction with broad-spectrum UVA/UVB coverage. The good news is that, when layered underneath sunscreen with a minimum of SPF 30, vitamin C protects the skin even further. "Think of it as a safety net to help neutralize free radical damage that can occur from UV light penetration despite our best protection efforts with sunscreen," says Zeichner. Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Vitamin C Lactic Dewy Deep CreamGlossier Super GlowPaula's Choice C15 Super BoosterPCA Skin C-Quench Antioxidant SerumWhat percentage of vitamin C is best?Concentration: The sweet spot for the concentration level is between 10 and 20 percent. You definitely want a concentration that's higher than 8 percent for maximum effectiveness.
What percentage of vitamin C should I start with?"Begin with a low concentration of 10% and increase to 15% or 20% as tolerated," she instructs. For oily or normal skin, L-ascorbic acid is the most potent form of vitamin C and can be the most beneficial, while for dry and sensitive skin, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, a water-soluble vitamin C, is less irritating.
Is 200 percent vitamin C too much?A 200 milligram intake of vitamin C on a daily basis poses absolutely no risk, but there is strong evidence it would provide multiple, substantial health benefits,” says Frei.
Is 1000mg of vitamin C too much?You should be able to get all the vitamin C you need by eating a varied and balanced diet. If you take vitamin C supplements, do not take too much as this could be harmful. Taking less than 1,000mg of vitamin C supplements a day is unlikely to cause any harm.
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