Khaite 2023

KHAITE

“Khaite doesn’t present collections, we present a woman,” read the last line of Catherine Holstein’s show notes. And this season? She’s an ice-cool femme fatale. Filtered through David Lynch’s cinematic worlds—and his balance of light and dark—her sensual take on New York grit sizzles with a fantasy-filled, moody glamour. From python-embossed leather (a nod to Nicolas Cage in “Wild at Heart”) to fusions of silk fringe and a crystal-flecked bustier, pitch-black sequins, and (newly trending) bubble hemlines, it’s the hyper-elevated grunge essentials New Yorkers love her for—reimagined with an irresistible Sin City edge.

KHAITE

For Resort, Catherine Holstein continues to dictate the codes of NYC’s downtown sophisticate with silhouettes that put an even darker, hedonistic spin on her moody glamour. True to form, she delivers an expert balance of opposites—offsetting unbridled embellishment with graphic grit and structure with feminine fluidity, plus visibly sumptuous textures. In turns modern, nostalgic, and somehow entirely effortless: it’s Khaite’s signature cool—elevated for every hour of the day.

The buy: the Waylon dress in silk charmeuse—wear over a pair of jeans, or as is.

If I had to attach a theme to New York Spring/Summer 2023 thus far it would, “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.” For the most part this season, brands seems to be riffing on what they know works best for them, be it the remixed shirting at Monse, slouchy menswear-inspired tailoring at Tibi, or breezy, free-spirited dresses at Ulla Johnson. Even Fendi, which felt incredibly fresh thanks to the help of one Mister Marc Jacobs, was centered around the brand’s most iconic handbag, the Baguette. So when Khaite — whose designer Catherine Holstein has inarguably mastered sexy sophistication — tapped into the most, well, Khaite vibe for its show this afternoon, it felt fitting.

Held in Manhattan’s Meatpacking neighborhood with a front row of the coolest of cool girls (Kendall Jenner! Laura Harrier! Hannah Bronfman!), the event played major fan service to its customers with remixed versions of cult favorite downtown-girl-all-grown-up essentials. This, of course, included beautifully structured blazers, and slinky, sheer tulle dresses, and relaxed-yet-refined wideleg trousers. There were fantastic trench coats aplenty — both short and saucy, and longer line silhouettes — as well as a relaxed all-denim look that’ll fit right in with the label’s coveted line-up of jeans.

Within these established hits, however, there was also a good amount of newness to note, such as bouncy bubble-hem silhouettes (which TZR also spotted at Proenza Schouler — perhaps a pattern is emerging? Watch this space.), delicate Swarovski crystal embellishment, and black and white snakeskin print on calfskin. Also worth calling out are pairs of tan and cream stirrup leggings, which proved a fun twist on what’s been an ongoing trend for a few seasons. In general it was the ultimate line-up for anyone with a busy night life, but no interest in the bubblegum pop flashiness of Y2K going out fare: hero items such as an elegantly draped cream dress and leather lace-up pants would be ideal options looking to read more late ‘90s Carolyn Bessette than early ‘00s Paris Hilton.

And while the clothes were definitely the main event at this show, the importance of its accessories line-up should not be discounted. After all, who hasn’t had an amazing party look ruined by lack of the right shoe, bag, or jewelry? Fortunately Khaite had perfect ones across the board by way of sleek, naked sandal heels, sparkly clutches, and chunky gold jewelry: all things that go with everything and make every outfit a little better.

The selection in total was one full of items that shoppers will rabidly order in another six months — and the label seems to know that. A range of key pieces will be available on the site soon for devoted customers to reserve for purchase ahead of time. As the label succinctly says in its shownotes: “Khaite doesn’t present collection, we present a woman.” And if that’s true, then we all want to be her.

Catherine Holstein took a road trip out West, at least in her mind, while dreaming up her latest Khaite collection.

“I was going through a very David Lynch ‘Lost Highway,’ ‘Wild at Heart’ phase this summer,” she said backstage, noting the snakeskin, bold zippers, crystal and fringe motifs, and the sinister Southwest and Sin City Las Vegas vibes.

Certainly there is a bit of a fashion outlaw in Holstein. But her collections don’t really have themes. Rather, they are about the perfect piece on the coolest woman in the room.

Holstein is so sure of herself that what’s on the runway is what you see at retail — there is no line between runway fantasy and reality.

Clearly a lot of effort goes into making a black biker jacket fit and crop just so; a denim jacket that’s just oversized enough, with slouchy pockets and a wide waistband that settles mid-thigh, or a python embossed calfskin belted short trench with shoulders in just the right proportion to bring drama but not too much.

An oversize blazer with crystal lapels was one of the designer’s bolder statements — Hollywood bound, perhaps. More subtle was a black sequined chemise dress updated for spring with fringe spilling out from the hem. A Swarovski crystal dusted blouse, tucked into a black pencil skirt, was another forever piece. From age 20 to 80, there was something for everyone.

A woman designing for women, Holstein makes her bodysuits and corsets with softness in mind, using lace knit that’s featherweight. They were tucked into satin bubble skirts, which she’s been doing since before they became a trend. Those who know know; Khaite prides itself on being stealth.

Per usual, there were lots of new accessories, including a great-looking ankle strap evening sandal with a Lucite heel, and the Olivia bag made over in a wonderfully weird, sort of Lynchian vinyl.

Femme fatales wanted.