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Welcome to Brand Breakdown, a series of comprehensive yet easy-to-digest guides to your favorite companies, with insights and information you won’t find on the average About page.
In the beginning, there was one: the 501. In 1873, Levi Strauss and Co. received a patent for blue jeans reinforced with rivets and began producing stronger pants for working men. Over the past century, the brand’s jeans became a favorite of miners, laborers, rock stars and city-dwellers — a quintessential American garment that transcended all social classes. They’ve also been canonized in American cinema by Marlon Brando in The Wild One [1953], James Dean in Rebel Without a Cause [1954], and Elvis Presley in Jailhouse Rock [1957]. And since the advent of the 501, Levi’s has created dozens of fits for its ever-growing clientele.
- Levi’s 501 Original Fit Jeans
Straight Fit
- Levi’s 501 Original Shrink-to-Fit Jeans
Straight Fit
- Levi’s 505 Regular Fit Jeans
Straight Fit
- Levi’s 514 Straight Fit Jeans
Straight Fit
- Levi’s 559 Relaxed Straight Jeans
Straight Fit
- Levi’s 569 Loose Straight Fit Jeans
Straight Fit
- Levi’s 502 Taper Fit Flex Jeans
Taper Fit
- Levi’s 510 Skinny Fit Jeans
Skinny Fit
- Levi’s 511 Slim Fit Jeans
Slim Fit
- Levi’s 512 Slim Fit Taper Jeans
Taper Fit
- Levi’s 513 Slim Straight Jeans
Slim Fit
- Levi’s 527 Slim Bootcut Jeans
Boot Cut Fit
- Levi’s Western Fit Jeans
Boot Cut Fit
- Levi’s So High Bootcut Jeans
Boot Cut Fit
- Levi’s 531 Athletic Slim Jeans
Athletic Fit
- Levi’s 541 Athletic Taper Jeans
Athletic Fit
- Levi’s 550 Relaxed Fit Jeans
Relaxed Fit
Levi’s History
Bavarian immigrant Levi Strauss founded the West Coast wing of his brother’s dry goods business in San Francisco in 1853. 20 years later a tailor, Jacob Davis, reached out to Strauss about rivets he fastened to pants to reinforce their pockets. Together, Davis thought, they could file the aforementioned patent for rivet reinforced waist overalls. And, in 1873, Levi’s as we know it was born.
But not quite jeans at large. These kinds of trousers already existed. Levi’s just popularized [and patented] ones with rivets. The reinforcements were originally for workers, who would inevitably work [pun intended] their way through usual pants, creating a market for more durable ones. [Hence the logo, a visual of two horses tied to the pants trying to rip them apart.] By 1890, the patent expired and Levi’s was no longer the style’s exclusive manufacturer. Cue numerical values: first being the 501 [and the 201, an affordable alternative]. Though the reasoning for the numbering remains a mystery, Levi’s used it as the foundation for styles to come: the 505, 511 and so on and so forth.
You can learn more about Levi’s history in our dedicated guide to vintage Levi’s jeans.
Terms to Know
Arcuates: These two rows of yellow stitches form arcs on the back pockets of every pair of Levi’s.
Anti-fit: This is essential to Levi’s ethos. Jeans have a slightly looser fit, especially in the top block [see below]. “The back of a pair of Levi’s doesn’t really hug a guy’s backside perfectly,” Cheung said.”That is deliberate.” The iconic image of Bruce Springsteen’s posterior on the cover of Born in the USA exemplifies this look.
5-pocket: The foundational design of all blue jeans designed by Levi’s. The 5-pocket design is simple: two front internal pockets, one right-hand coin pocket — originally a “watch pocket” — and two back patch pockets.
Bar Tacks: A series of close machine-made stitches used to reinforce stress points throughout the jeans. Most noticeably, this feature is found on the top corners of the back pockets.
Rivets: Another foundational feature of all Levi’s, copper rivets are placed at a handful of stress points on the jeans.
Red Tab: This small tab is sewn on the outside of the right back pocket. It is one of a few ways Levi’s are instantly recognizable.
Back Leather Patch: No pair of Levi’s is complete without the back right waistband patch showing two horses pulling apart a pair of jeans — a nod to Levi’s strength and durability. For practical purposes, this patch also shows the fit number and size.
Denim: The fabric used to make jeans, this strong cotton twill is dyed with indigo which gives it a distinctive blue shade. In recent years, this all-cotton fabric is woven with a small percentage of stretch material for comfort.
Top Block: The part of the pant that includes the waist and hips. The cut here defines the fit through the thighs: skinny, slim or straight.
Waist: To find a waist size, measure across the top of a pair of jeans [laid flat] and double that number [i.e. a waist measured at 16 inches is tagged as a size 32]. The waist measurement is also the first number of the tagged size [i.e. 32 x 34].
Inseam: This is the second size listed on the tag. It refers to the measurement from the crotch to the leg opening. Simply put, it’s the length.
Rise: The rise indicates where the jeans will sit on your waist. When measured, it is the distance between the crotch and the top of the fly. The greater the rise, the higher the jeans will sit on your waist. Typically, slimmer jeans have a lower rise.
Shrink-to-Fit: While only available in a small number of Levi’s 501s, shrink-to-fit jeans are made from denim that has not been pre-shrunk in the factory. Jeans cut from this denim will shrink when soaked and will form to your body. Levi’s claims these jeans will shrink up to 10 percent after the first soak.
Orange Tab: Introduced in the 1960s, Orange Tab Levi’s differentiated its classic Red Tab lineup from boot cuts and bell bottoms. These remained on Levi’s throughout the ‘70s and were considered more experimental, fashion-forward pieces from its time.
Silver Tab: First debuted in 1988, these were more baggy and loose styles of jeans popular in the ‘80s and ’90s. Think grunge, hip-hop, and streetwear.
What the Levi’s Numbers Mean
All Levi’s jeans follow a similar naming sequence, beginning with the 501. But, the reason for the 501 designation is, as we said, a bit of a mystery. “Around 1890 is when we started calling our copper-riveted waist overalls the 501,” says Jonathan Cheung, the Senior Vice President of Design Innovation at Levi’s. The mystery surrounding the number is largely due to the San Francisco earthquake of 1906 that destroyed many of the company’s files. “The 501 was a product identification number, but we don’t know the reason why it was a three-digit number beginning with five,” said Cheung. So now, as an homage to the company’s legacy, all Levi’s fits are denoted by a number: 501, 505 and 511, among others. Each number denotes a cut designed for a specific style and body type.
Throughout the 20th century, Levi’s also made jeans outside of the 500 series. The 200s in the 1920s and 600s in the 1960s were both designed to be more affordable. But for ease of use, this guide will only describe the fits that are made by Levi’s today. Levi’s Vintage Clothing and Levi’s Made and Crafted are not included in this guide.
How Do Levi’s 501 Jeans Fit?
While the production, quality, and materials of the 501 have changed over the last century, its fit and style remain relatively the same: straight-leg, medium-rise, with no taper. This 12.5-ounce denim jean features a button fly, five pockets, and non-stretch 100% cotton. Its style is neither skinny nor baggy and sits just above the hips for a flattering silhouette on any body type. This mainstay is always available in single-increment waist sizes and lengths from 29 through 40.
Read our full in-depth review of the modern Levi’s 501 blue jean.
Levi’s Jeans for Men
Since the release of 501s, Levi’s expanded its offering to include numerous fits for different occasions and lifestyles. Currently, the brand offers well over a dozen silhouettes for men — here’s how to tell them apart.
Straight Fit
Levi’s 501 Original Fit Jeans
The fit of the original blue jean has changed over the years, but you can still count on a straight cut that sits at the waist with a button fly. Pair ‘em with boots or cuffed with sneakers–you won’t get more classic than this.
Year Introduced: 1873 Washes: 23 Waist: 24 to 46, depending on wash Inseam: 29 to 40
Other Versions of the 501:
- 501 Slim Taper
- 501 150th Anniversary
- 501 Selvege
- 1890 501
- 1937 501
- 1947 501
- 1954 501
- 1955 501
- 1960 501 Z
- 1980s 501 Selvedge
- Circular 501
Straight Fit
Levi’s 501 Original Shrink-to-Fit Jeans
This is a raw denim version of the classic 501. These have the same straight fit as the standard 501s but are designed to shrink to your body. There are a few different ways to achieve the best fit, but the Levi’s-approved method is simple: buy a pair with your true waist size, but with an inseam that is two sizes larger than what you typically wear. Put the jeans on and sit in a warm bath. Then wear them until dry.
If you want the simplest route: just machine wash and dry your jeans. Levi’s recommends sizing up 1 inch in the waist and 3 inches in length for this method. They’ll shrink approximately 10% after washing.
Year Introduced: 1927 Washes: 2 Waist: 24 to 46 Inseam: 29 to 40
Straight Fit
Levi’s 505 Regular Fit Jeans
The 505 is the first zip-fly jean by Levi’s, created in 1967. With a similar cut to the 501, they sit at the waist, offer a bit more room in the thigh and have a straight fit down to the leg opening. Depending on the wash, you can find these in stretch with a 1% Lycra blend or non-stretch. Like the 501, this is a Levi’s classic.
Year Introduced: 1967 Washes: 26 Waist: 26 to 44, depending on wash Inseam: 29 to 36
Straight Fit
Levi’s 514 Straight Fit Jeans
This classic straight fit is designed for those with an athletic build. The 514 is cut for comfort, sitting below the waist with a regular fit through the thigh and a straight leg. Many of its washes are available in stretch, with some adding TENCEL for a soft, cooling feel
Washes: 16 Waist: 28 to 42, depending on wash Inseam: 29 to 36
Straight Fit
Levi’s 559 Relaxed Straight Jeans
A cousin of the relaxed-fit 550 [see below], the zip-fly 559 sits below the waist, has a roomy thigh and maintains a straight fit in the leg. These are only available in stretch fabrics.
Year Introduced: 1985 Washes: 12 Waist: 26 to 44, depending on wash Inseam: 30 to 36
Straight Fit
Levi’s 569 Loose Straight Fit Jeans
Roomy without being baggy, these zip-fly jeans are cut to sit below the waist and feature a loose, straight-fit leg. Along with the generous cut, these are woven with stretch material and have extra room in the seat. These are tastefully spacious without the appearance of JNCO jean legs.
Washes: 9 Waist: 29 to 44, depending on wash Inseam: 30 to 34
Taper Fit
Levi’s 502 Taper Fit Flex Jeans
The 502 offers a little bit more room in the thigh, sits slightly below the waist and includes a slimming taper down to the leg opening. These feature a zipper fly, and, as Fit Flex indicates, a bit of stretch via LYCRA.
Year Introduced: 1967 Washes: 18 Waist: 28 to 42, depending on wash Inseam: 30 to 34
Skinny Fit
Levi’s 510 Skinny Fit Jeans
These are noticeable slimmer. Made from denim with stretch, these zip fly jeans have a lower rise and smaller leg opening. Skinny throughout, the added stretch gives you mobility without sacrificing the look. They’re also blended with TENCEL for a soft, cooling fabric feel.
Washes: 8 Waist: 28 to 38, depending on wash Inseam: 30 to 34
Slim Fit
Levi’s 511 Slim Fit Jeans
The 511 is Levi’s standard slim fit jean. These are made with denim that includes a bit of stretch, they sit below the waist and are narrow from the thigh through the leg opening. They’ve also got a zipper fly.
Year Introduced: 2000 Washes: 21 Waist: 26 to 36, depending on wash Inseam: 29 to 36
Taper Fit
Levi’s 512 Slim Fit Taper Jeans
These are a spinoff of the 511, but with a narrower fit through the thigh and a tapered leg. They also have a bit of stretch for comfort and a zip fly.
Year Introduced: 2000 Washes: 9 Waist: 26 to 36, depending on wash Inseam: 29 to 36
Slim Fit
Levi’s 513 Slim Straight Jeans
The 513 has a well-rounded fit — not slim but not straight. They sit below the waist, feature a fip fly, they’re slim through the thigh and they have a straight leg. They’re only available in stretch and are made with cotton, TENCEL, and LYCRA.
Washes: 5 Waist: 26 to 42, depending on wash Inseam: 30 to 34
Boot Cut Fit
Levi’s 527 Slim Bootcut Jeans
An update on the recently axed 517, these bootcut jeans are slim through the thigh and have a less-pronounced leg opening. They have a zip flip and some washes are available in a stretch fabric.
Year Introduced: 1968 Washes: 12 Waist: 26 to 40, depending on wash Inseam: 30 to 36
Boot Cut Fit
Levi’s Western Fit Jeans
The most recent update to the Levi’s lineup of boot-friendly jeans, the number-less Western Fit sits at the waist with a straight leg and a slight flare. It’s also considerably flexible thanks to a heavy dose of polyamide, polyester and a bit of elastane. Unlike many of its other jeans, these feature extra belt loops, zip fly, a reverse yoke and ‘safety’ felled inseams.
Washes: 4 Waist: 29 to 38 Inseam: 30 to 34
Boot Cut Fit
Levi’s So High Bootcut Jeans
These are brand-new from Levi’s. They have the highest rise of any modern Levi’s jean, a slim seat and thigh, a boot cut leg, and flared bottoms. These have some stretch and a zip fly, and are directly inspired by ’70s, ’90s and vintage Orange Tab Levi’s.
Year Introduced: 2021 Washes: 4 Waist: 29 to 38 Inseam: 30 to 34
Athletic Fit
Levi’s 531 Athletic Slim Jeans
While most of Levi’s athletic-fit jeans are tapered through the legs, these are not. These have a slim, although straight-ish, fit with plenty of room for bigger folks. They have stretch, a zip fly, and are best for those with thick calves and thighs.
Washes: 3 Waist: 26 to 40 Inseam: 29 to 36
Athletic Fit
Levi’s 541 Athletic Taper Jeans
Made for those with an athletic build, these stretch jeans are an underground hit for Levi’s. These offer a relaxed fit with a slight taper.
Washes: 6 Waist: 29-44 Inseam: 30-34
Relaxed Fit
Levi’s 550 Relaxed Fit Jeans
First relaxed in 1985, the 550 was Levi’s initial take on a more relaxed fit. It is based on the 501, but features more room in the top block and thigh.